October 17-18, 2011: Whatever bug I had picked up in Albania didn’t want to leave me. Combined with a very hot bus ride from Budva to Kotor, and a 15 minute schlep round the outside of the old town, I arrived in no mood for extended sight-seeing. My room, at Apartment Tianis, wasn’t an apartment, but had a balcony with a view of the impressive hillside behind the town, and was conveniently located across from a small mall, where I picked up another medication for my cold. Once again, I was reminded that I was traveling all but out of season. Normally breakfast would have been served in the garden of the house, but the owners were getting ready to move out to their winter home, and I picked up supplies from the mini-market in the mall instead.
I had intended to day-trip by bus to Perast and Risan, and even entertained thoughts of climbing the 1,350 steps that led up along the extended town walls to the fortifications perched nearly 4,000 feet above the harbor. But not with a cough, a runny nose, and no energy. I settled for sipping coffee, either in one of the outdoor cafes in the town, or in the mall, and exploring the maze of streets inside the walls. I got lost a lot, but that was fine. The place was small enough that I didn’t stay lost for long.
I also spent a little time outside the walls, by the harbor. The bulk of Kotor’s tourists arrive on day trips from Dubrovnik, but some arrive on the smaller cruise ships. A rather grubby looking OAT boat was in the harbor both days, but the beautiful Sea Cloud II, masts rising high above her decks, seemed only to stay a couple of hours before disappearing again.
Besides the cold, I had a nasty heat rash on both legs. I put this down to the very, very cheap Dove soap I had bought in Albania not being Dove soap at all. Then, as all bad things are supposed to come in threes, I found that the bus I wanted to take to Trebinje in Bosnia only ran on the weekends. It seemed I had no choice but to reach Bosnia via Dubrovnik in Croatia. Since I had visited Dubrovnik in 2004, and all the reports said that it had just gotten more and more touristy since, I wasn’t very enthusiastic about going back. And even then, the buses to Dubrovnik didn’t run every day.
I cut a day from Kotor, bought a ticket to Dubrovnik, and arranged to stay in a small apartment in the old town.