Quick Look at Istanbul

November 10 – 12, 2009: I read that Ataturk, the founder of modern, secular,

Clock tower at Dolmabahce Palace

Turkey, died at 9:05 am November 10th, 1938. I read that he died in the Dolmabahce Palace. I read those facts on November 9th, but for some reason I didn’t draw the right conclusion, and set off the morning of November 10th to visit the palace. Lots and lots of locals, some in small groups, some in big, many of them kids with patriotic buttons, had the same idea. After I got a good look at the crowds, and at the line to buy tickets, I took a picture of the ornate clock tower, and left.

The palace is north of the Golden Horn, on the shore right below Taksim Square. Since I didn’t fancy the steep uphill hike, I took the new funicular to the square, and then started a slow amble down Istikal Caddesi to the Galata Tower. Any thoughts I had had about Beyoglu being less touristy than Sultanahmet died quickly. Locals and tourists  filled the pedestrian main drag, and competing cafes and fish restaurants crowded the narrow side streets. I picked a place with a Turkish only menu for coffee and excellent baklava.

Istikal Caddesi

I ate lunch in the shadow of the tower (I’d been up it on a previous visit), at Kiva Han, where you order by pointing at dishes laid out on a counter. Good place for people-watching, but, as so often with what was in effect a buffet, the food disappointed. Then I walked the rest of the way down to Karakoy and the Galata Bridge, noting that the nearer I got to the bottom, the less glitzy the shops.

Small piece of the Alexander sarcophagus

The Archaeology Museum is understandably overshadowed by such major sites as Aya Sofya, the Blue Mosque and Topkapi, but it contains at least one stellar sight. I was absolutely blown away by the Alexander sarcophagus. It looks like the sculptor just finished his work, and what work! Wonderfully detailed figures of men and animals completely fill all four sides. It’s hard to believe that the marble was carved in the 4th century B.C.E. In any other company the Weeping Maidens sarcophagus, nearby, would be a stand-out, but here it is just an also-ran. From a completely different period I also loved the Tiled Kiosk, where one room is decorated with gorgeous dark blue and gold tiles.

My second night I decided to eat with a view despite the cold, and chose the

In the Tiled Kisok

Ataturk Hotel, right across from the Empress Zoe. Even wearing my warmest clothes and the restaurant’s pashima, I still needed a brazier to fight the chill, but by the next night rain and wind had closed the rooftop cafe altogether. The shrimp I chose were good and big, but expensive.

Have I mentioned that I’m not a shopper? I enjoy markets, especially food markets, but I’m happy to look, not buy, and not bargain. In fact, I had now arrived at the last day of the trip before flying back to the U.S. without buying anything in the way of souvenirs or presents. I had to shop, and I had saved the shopping for Istanbul’s bazaars. But before taking the plunge I treated myself to the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts (by the Hippodrome) where I had a nice time among the carpets and the calligraphy with no one pressuring me to buy.

Actually, the shopping turned out to be fairly painless. I bought saffron in the Spice Bazaar, and calligraphy in the Grand Bazaar, without too much pressure, and largely ignored the stall holders who called out to me. In between the bazaars I ate a sandwich on a handy bench near the waterfront in Eminonu, and visited the small, exquisitely tiled Rustem Pasa mosque. I did wonder about the dead bird that fell at my feet as I finished my sandwich….

Sultanahmet from the Bosphorus

Given the miserable weather I once again dined close to home. The Empress Zoe recommended one of the many restaurants crowding Akbiyik Caddesi, Albura, and I chose chicken wrapped round rice and pine nuts – really quite good. The next morning I would leave early for the airport.