Posts Tagged ‘karahunj’

October 6, 2009: Tuesday morning I set off on the Hyur tour to Nagorno-Karabakh. For once on a tour I was in a distinct linguistic minority – everyone else in the group, except for the Corsican chef, spoke Armenian – they were all from the diaspora. True, the other solo female, a therapist from Australia, turned out to speak western Armenian, and had a little difficulty with everyone else’s eastern Armenian, but she could manage.

The land called Artsakh by its inhabitants spent a long time as part of Persia, passing into Russian hands in 1805, after which many Muslim inhabitants left for Persia, and Persian Armenians moved to Karabakh. Stalin, in one of his many divide-and-conquer map-redrawing exercises, moved the area from Armenia to Azerbaijan in the 1920s, and Azeri settlers started moving in. When Karabakh voted to join Armenia after independence in 1989, Azerbaijan responded with force, helped at first by the Soviets and then by the Turks. Five years and 30,000 lives later, an uneasy ceasefire was declared. Now Karabakh is still officially part of Azerbaijan, but can only be visited from Armenia.

Back in 2006 I had passed through another non-country resulting from Stalin’s gerrymandering – Transnistria.  There Moldova, itself once part of Romania, claimed sovereignty, and only Russia recognized the break-away republic. I had been on a bus headed to Chisinau in Moldova, but still had to bribe the border guards to get in. Nothing I saw encouraged me to linger. I hoped that Karabakh had been doing better.

Khor Virap

We actually spent most of Tuesday in Armenia proper. Our first stop was foranother look at Mt. Ararat, still lost in haze, and the border with Turkey. Talks about finally opening the border were underway while I was in Armenia, although apparently the Azerbaijanis were insisting that their issues should be settled first, and demonstrators in Yerevan’s Republic Square were collecting signatures on a petition opposing better relations until Turkey acknowledged the Armenian genocide of 1915-17. I believe the border is still closed.

Khor Virop is almost as significant to Armenians as Mount Ararat, and photographed better. Armenia became the first country to adopt Christianity, in 301, thanks to St. Gregory the Illuminator, who spent 12 years imprisoned in a dungeon below where the church now stands. I enjoyed a number of the carvings at Khor Virap, but I’m too tone deaf to really appreciate the a capella female chorus that performed inside one of the churches.


Around this point, I began to suspect that I was getting churched-out, although our next stop, Noravank, was different enough to hold my interest. One of the 13th century churches is a two-story affair, with two steep exterior staircases forming a triangle outside. I stayed at ground level, and watched those who ventured up inching their way gingerly back down – well, except for the kids, who had no trouble at all.


After a late and lengthy lunch, with more tough barbecue, we made one more stop before the border, at Karahunj, Armenia’s Stonehenge. I hadn’t heard of it, and was surprised by a field of huge stones, said to have been arranged around 5,500 B.C.E. as an astronomical observatory. Unfortunately, the temperature had dropped, and with a fierce wind blowing I sought shelter beside one of the stones rather than listening to our guide.

While we had to stop at the border, our guide took care of the formalities (Hyur had taken a copy of my passport when I paid for the tour). We finally reached the Heghnar hotel in Stepanakert, and dinner, at 8:45 pm.

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