Georgia Wrap

1 December, 2009: I’ve just finished organizing the photos from Georgia – at kwilhelm.smugmug.com/Travel/Caucasus-and-Middle-East-2009 – and thought I’d post some final thoughts on Georgia before moving on to Armenia.

It’s clear that economically, this country’s not doing so well, and it didn’t take a “Polish Aid” sign at a construction site to tell me that. While the main roads are in good shape, secondary roads and sidewalks are definitely not. Then there are the taxi drivers in the countryside, coasting whenever they can to save gas, and an electricity supply often too weak to charge my Nokia n800. Transport (by marshrutka) and food (khachapuri – cheese pie – and khinkali – meat dumplings) can be unbelievably cheap. But the people, friendly and energetic, struck me as entrepreneurial survivors, so I hope things will improve.

Renovation underway at Nekresi

It’s also a very old, proud, country, with a history going back to the dawn of agriculture and including a prosperous period as Colchis (think Jason’s Golden Fleece). Just the second nation to embrace Christianity, in the early fourth century, its Christian heritage has survived occupation by the Muslim Ottomans as well as the atheistic Soviets, although the church buildings suffered badly under the Soviets. The religious revival includes a massive new cathedral in Tbilisi, and renovation at many churches in the countryside.

I visited in the second half of September, and (as a look at my photos will attest) suffered a shortage of sunshine. This could be a good destination in July and August, when much of Europe is overrun with tourists. I saw only one small, European, tour group (at Vardzia), and encountered a scattering of European backpackers and rather more Israelis (there’s a direct flight from Tel Aviv to Tbilisi), so this is a good place for people looking to get off the main tourist trail. No Western chains in evidence either, aside from a few hotels.

The Zhinvali Reservoir near Ananuri

Georgia is a great budget destination, with a network of homestays and the afore-mentioned cheap food and transport. I loved the scenery, and I didn’t even get up into the higher mountains. Having discovered that access to Svaneti (in the northwest), and Tusheti (in the northeast) is easier than Lonely Planet suggests, I’d really like to come back and spend time in the north.

Options for high-end travelers are limited. There are a couple of Marriotts and a Radisson in Tbilisi, and Sheraton is building in Tbilisi and Batumi, but otherwise the best option outside Tbilisi is the Dzveli Batumi chain. Mid-range people can do a bit better, but if you’re headed for the mountains, there’s not much besides homestays.

I used Lonely Planet, and aside from a map error in Kutaisi, found it worked well. I read the Bradt guide before I left, but unless you plan to drive yourself to every church in the country, you’re better off with Lonely Planet. I took a quick look at an Odyssey guide while I was in Tbilisi, and thought it would be worth checking out for sightseeing information.

Bottom line? Georgia is on my “would revisit” list, for the mountains, but not my “must revisit” list.