Helsinki is a relatively new city, which exists because the Swedes built Suomenlinna fortress on a nearby island as a defense against the Russians. (They ultimately lost Finland to the Russian tsars, but later than the Baltic regions.) The fortress was a marvel in its day, and is still considered a must-see sight, but I like my castles medieval, and wasn’t terribly interested. However, rather than pay for a pricey harbor tour, I took the much cheaper ferry over just to get a look at the city from the sea.
Driving into the city from the airport I had been struck by how northern the countryside looked – evergreens and flat granite outcroppings – and now the overhelming impression was of more flatness – low islands scattered across a grey sea. The best feature was the Turneresque sky, with everchanging clouds spreading to infinity. However, my feet were complaining, and I soon took the ferry back to the mainland.
I did ignore my feet when it came to checking out the Art Nouveau buildings. I had picked up a brochure with a walking tour from the T.I. (no English ones available, but my French was good enough) and followed most of it in between rain showers. But although I found a few buildings I enjoyed, in general I thought the architecture more Art Deco than Nouveau.
The rain did limit my sightseeing – I abandoned plans to visit the open Air Ethnographical Museum, and a possible side trip to Porvoo. The afternoon I went to the Church in the Rock (as much on as in, but interesting none-the-less) it rained so hard that I retreated to a cafe I had spotted near the tram stop. The coffee wasn’t great, but it was a nice cafe, with well-filled book shelves and comfortable seats.
My last afternoon I gave up all pretence of being a tourist. I ate a late lunch sandwich in the Stockman department store, and followed the recommendation of the young local sitting next to me to take the underground passage to the neighboring Academic Bookstore. Here I drank coffee while I browsed a couple of guide books, and then settled into an armchair on the ground floor to read the first chapter of Bill Bryson’s latest book. (I’m now reading the rest of it on my iPad, having borrowed it electronically from my home town library. I only get a seven day loan, though, and it’s a big book.)
Helsinki was not kind to my budget. Aside from the two extra hotel nights, I also spent a fair amount on food. I tried reindeer once, in a sandwich at Cafe Strindberg, and thought it a little too strong. That night I had intended to eat cheaply at Cafe Engel, but was too hungry for their offerings, and went upstairs to the recommendable Sunn instead for a delicious appetizer of small fish and wild mushrooms, and a calves liver entree. Other nights I ate Chinese and then Nepalese/Indian – acceptable but not memorable.
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