Sep 27, 2014: Aside from the political demonstration blocking the direct route to Bucharest’s Gara de Nord, my transfer to Brasov went smoothly. After the train cleared the capital’s suburbs, I kept an eye out for oil rigs around Ploesti, but didn’t see any. (Yes, the Ploesti that was Hitler’s prize and Allied bombers’ target.) AC had told me that the field was still producing, but much of the output was sold cheaply to Austria, while Romanians paid high prices for gas. After Ploesti we climbed into the Fagaras mountains: steep, forested slopes rose on either side, with the first colors of autumn brightening the landscape.
I had shared a four-seats-with-table section with two local women and we had managed some communication, despite not sharing a language. At Brasov the older took charge of me, and the metered taxi she located dropped her in a residential section behind the station, before taking me through the modern city and past a pretty park into the heart of the old, Saxon, town. Apparently the Saxons had lived inside the still standing 15th century protective walls, while the Romanians had been relegated to the Schei section outside.
Planning this trip I had debated: Sinaia or Brasov? Sinaia and Brasov? Sinaia as a base for Brasov? Eventually I settled on Brasov as a base for Sinaia, and after seeing both I believe it was the right decision, although Sinaia might be better if you were hiking or skiing.
The Bella Muzica, my hotel, was ideally situated on the edge of Piata Sfatului, which I thought one of the prettiest squares in Europe. Historic buildings surrounded it, the 15th century council house was at one side, a major tourist destination, the Black Church, at one end, and it was liberally provided not only with outdoor cafes, but with free benches from which one could admire the fountain and the steep, forested slopes of Mt. Tampa, overlooking the town. There was even an evening trumpet salute from the tower of the council house at 6:00 each day, followed by a parade of costumed townsmen, for those who like that kind of thing.
After an OK lunch in the basement restaurant of my hotel (across from me a young couple were both smoking, while holding a small child!) I paid an interesting visit to the Black Church. Originally Catholic, it had become Evangelical early in the Protestant reformation, and was bare in comparison to the Romanian Orthodox churches, aside from painting on the pews. But there was an amazing bronze font, dated 1472 and looking like an upturned bell, and a remarkable collection of Turkish carpets to remind me that Brasov had been for many years on the frontier between west and east. And on a couple of tombs, dated 1753 and 1780, I saw paintings of boots. Perhaps the occupants were boot makers? I have no idea. Oh, and for those who are musical the church also contains a Buchholz organ, with 3993 pipes, believed to be the only one in its original form and still in use.
Reading the history of the church I learned that the area had sustained 30 earthquakes between 1550 and 1600, and that after a “great fire” in 1689 only the walls had been left standing (that’s why it’s the Black Church). No photos were allowed in the church, but I made up for it outside, walking up and down the streets of the old town, and finding many lovely buildings. I was also looking for an Ecco store, as I wanted to replace my rather old sandals, but when I stumbled on it (the Ecco website was out of date) they only had shoes and boots.
Some of the buildings were in better shape than others, but I always feel that that gives a town a lived-in feel that would be lost if everything was perfect. I noticed plenty of neat details, like the fairy perched above one of the cafes, not to mention the “eyebrow” attic vents. I’m still amused by the sign on the chocolate shop: “Createur de gout”.
I ate dinner at my hotel, and while the duck with honey and grapefruit was tough, it was also, to my surprise, delicious. For more on the hotel, and my apartment with the “hole” in the floor, see: http://tinyurl.com/lnz5jw4
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