October 16-19, 2015: Of course, Leon has always been an important stop on the Camino de Santiago, which explains its magnificent cathedral and the elaborate plateresque facade of the building that now houses the parador, and was once the headquarters of the Order of Santiago, responsible for caring for the pilgrims. (Pilgrims today may be footsore, and the Camino is not without its risks, but it was far more dangerous, and pilgrims much less well-equipped, in the Middle Ages. They had to walk back home, too.) Leon has also served as both a royal and a provincial capital. But the popularity I have in mind is as a tourist attraction. I previously visited in the spring of 2004, and remember having the cathedral pretty much to myself. Indeed, my photos of the outside show just a scattering of people. Not any more: the outside was busy, people queued to get in, and the inside seemed full despite its size.
In 2004 I traveled along the coast on the slow commuter trains and loved the scenery. This time I rode in Preferente class on a fast ALVIA, traveling inland. Preferente class was plenty comfortable, and mostly empty, but I found a surprise when I boarded. On the floor by my seat was a Fodor’s guide to Barcelona and a small, stuffed black shoulder bag. I thought at first that a seat mate must have gone to lunch and would return to claim them, but no. When it became obvious that the owner had disembarked without them I handed them to the conductor when he finally appeared, along with an explanation on my phone, but it was a chilling reminder to check your belongings when you get off a train, not just a plane.
Last time I had admired the parador’s elaborate facade from outside, and visited the attached church and museum. Now I was looking forward to staying inside, but I didn’t enjoy it as much as I expected. For one thing, the parador was a bit of a trek from everything else I wanted to see, and anywhere else I might have wanted to eat – better to do the walk once to see the parador and stay in the old town. Then, the rest of the building really didn’t live up to the outside. The rooms right behind the facade may be lovely. Mine was in the “old” section to the left, fronting the river. Aside from the door and window it was quite plain, with somewhat battered furniture, a decrepit carpet and a bathroom in need of renovation. A third section to the right of the facade looked like a motel, and probably housed tour groups and pilgrims. The food was overpriced and not very good. The staff on the small reception desk were overworked and so curt as to be almost rude. I did get to wander round the cloisters whenever I chose, although part of the upstairs section stayed full of tables for assorted functions. The view into the choir stalls in the upper part of the church was excellent, and I enjoyed hanging out in the bar, where the food was better than in the dining room, but I think I would have been happier staying for a second time in the Posada Regia.
I was revisiting Leon for the cathedral, as I had heard that the stained glass had been cleaned since my first visit. All 1,800 square meters had indeed been meticulously cleaned and looked wonderful. Then, as with other Spanish cathedrals, the choir stalls were elaborately carved and fascinating. I actually visited three times. The first time I went round with the excellent audio guide. The second time I went round with binoculars and my camera. The third time I just enjoyed being there. (I have so many photos of the cathedral I’m going to do a separate post on it.)
The other building I very much wanted to revisit was the Basilica San Isadoro. Not for the basilica, but for the associated museum and royal burial chamber. Photographs are not allowed, alas, but the twelfth century frescoes in the burial chamber were as engaging as I remembered, and the treasures in the museum as exquisite. I visited the Basilica on a Sunday, and when I reluctantly left, I found a river of women in pink T-shirts processing along the far side of the plaza. It seemed that Leon was honoring Breast Cancer Awareness on a different schedule to Pau.
Leon is also home to one of Gaudi’s buildings, the Casa Botines, a neo-Gothic structure quite different from his more famous Modernisme projects in Barcelona. Wandering the streets near the old town I found several other interesting buildings, along with fountains and sculptures.
Great photos!
Thanks! Love your screen name.
It’s a pity staying at the parador didn’t live up to expectations although at least you had a view of the river which would have swung it for me. Loving your posts, you’re always opening up new ideas in me of where to visit in Europe.
Alas, no view of the river, just the trees and a bridge, The water was very low, too, unlike other rivers I saw in Spain. I really enjoyed the Hondarribia parador back in 2004, so would certainly try another.
Gorgeous photos! My main memory from Leon on the Camino was that I washed all three of my shirts at once, so had to walk around and eat dinner in my thin plasticky raincoat thing… So I guess I’ll have to go back!
Thanks! Congratulations on arriving on foot, I just took the train. And I’m glad I went back, the cathedral looks fabulous with the glass cleaned.